We read the moisture, the finish and the wood left above the tongue before we quote, so the work fits the floor you actually have.
Smyrna Wood Flooring has spent more than 20 years sanding, repairing and installing wood floors in Smyrna, GA, from worn oak in a 1980s subdivision to heart pine in an intown bungalow. We handle full refinishing, screen and recoat, board repair after water or termite damage, hardwood stairs, and new solid or engineered floors, including the carpet-to-hardwood jobs that start with pulling up an old pad.
Most calls start with a floor that looks wrong rather than a job title. A room has cupped, the finish has gone gray in the traffic lanes, or a musty smell showed up after a leak. We begin by reading the floor, with a moisture meter, a look at the finish, and a check on how much wood is left, so the quote matches the problem instead of a guess.
We are a flooring company that works on the floor you already have before selling you a new one. When refinishing will carry a floor another twenty years we say so, and when a board, a stair tread or a whole room needs to come out, we explain why before any saw starts.
What we do
Wood floor refinishing, repair and installation in Smyrna, GA
Full sanding and refinishing for oak, heart pine and engineered floors, with stain samples and a finish chosen for your household.
Engineered wood floors chosen for your subfloor and installed over slabs, wood subfloors and condo decks, with moisture tested first.
Squeaks, gaps, soft spots, stains and damaged boards repaired with matched wood that blends into the floor around it.
Water-damaged wood floors traced, dried, measured and repaired, with room-by-room moisture records your adjuster can use.
Stair refinishing, new hardwood treads and carpet-to-wood stair conversions, quoted tread by tread.
New solid hardwood floors, from classic oak strip to wide plank and herringbone, installed over a subfloor we check first.
Heart pine and longleaf pine floors sanded gently, patched with matched boards and finished to keep their depth and patina.
Floor stain colors chosen from samples on your own sanded boards, applied evenly and sealed under the finish that suits your home.
Carpet pulled, subfloor checked, and new hardwood installed, or the oak hiding underneath sanded and refinished.
A fresh coat of finish over a dull or lightly scratched floor, without sanding into the wood, done in a day or two.
Termite-damaged boards and subfloor cut out and replaced with matched wood after treatment, with a written scope for closings.
We have worked on wood floors for over two decades, long enough to have sanded the same oak twice in some homes. That history is why we check the remaining wear before quoting a sanding, and why we can tell a floor that needs refinishing from one that simply needs a clean and a fresh coat.
No cupped floor gets sanded flat until a moisture meter has found the source, because a humid Georgia summer or a slow supply-line leak can lift board edges, and sanding the crown off a wet floor leaves it crowned when it dries rather than solving anything.
Every refinish quote on 1980s site-finished oak starts with a look at how much wood is left above the tongue. Smyrna’s largest block of homes dates from that decade, so many floors have been sanded before, and we refinish rather than tear out when the wear allows it.
Before a sander touches a home built before 1978, we check the build year and any painted surfaces, and we test old shellac or wax so the new finish bonds. More than a quarter of Smyrna’s homes predate 1980, so this step is routine for us rather than an afterthought.
Roughly one Smyrna owner household in four lives in a townhome-type home, and any interior flooring rule comes from your own declaration, not state law. We confirm the association’s written approval before replacing or refinishing, so you are not left with a finished floor the board rejects.
Every stain color is picked from samples laid on your sanded floor in your own light, since the same can looks different on red oak, white oak and heart pine, rather than from a showroom chip that never matches at home.
Cupping means board edges stand higher than their centers, and it almost always traces to moisture under or around the wood. We read the floor and the subfloor with a moisture meter, find the source, and let the boards settle before sanding. Buckling, where boards lift off the subfloor, gets the same diagnosis before any repair.
A spot that gives when you step on it, or a musty smell in one corner, points to moisture or rot in the subfloor or a joist. We open the floor where the signs are, find out how far the damage runs, and replace the wood that has failed. Covering a soft spot only moves the problem to the next board.
Pulling up old carpet sometimes reveals boards riddled by subterranean termites, mud tubes along the baseboard, or a hollow sound underfoot. Once the pest control company has treated, we cut out every damaged board and weave in new ones. Filling or covering termite damage leaves weak wood waiting to fail.
Appliance and plumbing leaks soak the floor from underneath, where you cannot see how far the water went. We trace the wet area with a moisture meter, dry it down, and replace only the boards that stay damaged. Every reading is documented room by room for your adjuster.
Pet urine that sits long enough reacts with oak and turns black, and the stain often runs deeper than sanding can reach. We sand first to see how far it goes, then replace the boards that stay dark. Blended into the surrounding floor, the repair disappears under the new finish.
Some older homes have strip flooring nailed straight to the joists with no subfloor below, and those boards flex, gap and splinter. We replace splintered boards and secure loose ones, and we explain when the lack of a subfloor limits what any refinish can fix. That tells you whether to repair now or plan a bigger job.
Every full sanding removes wood, and a floor refinished too often can show nail heads or the tops of tongues. We measure the remaining wear before quoting, and where a floor has nothing left to sand, we recommend a screen and recoat or targeted replacement. Sanding through the last layer turns a refinish into a replacement.
Squeaks come from boards rubbing on fasteners, and gaps open as wood dries out in winter. We secure loose boards from above or below, and we tell you which gaps are seasonal and will close again. Filling a seasonal gap in winter can push boards into buckling when humidity returns.
Traffic lanes show where the finish has worn to bare wood, while dents and deep scratches reach into the boards themselves. Surface wear on sound finish often needs only a screen and recoat; worn-through lanes need a full sanding. We show you the difference on your own floor before you choose.
In a condo or stacked townhome, hard floors carry footsteps into the unit below. We plan new floors around the acoustic underlayment your building requires and the rules in your declaration. Getting that right before installation is far cheaper than tearing up a floor after a neighbor complains.
A full sanding takes the floor to bare wood through a grit sequence on a drum sander, then an orbital sander, before new finish goes down. A screen and recoat scuffs the existing finish and adds a fresh coat without touching the wood. We tell you which one your floor needs, since the recoat costs far less when it will do.
Many Smyrna ranches from the 1950s and 1960s hide oak strip flooring under wall-to-wall carpet. We pull the tack strip and staples, fill the holes and staple rows rather than hiding them under stain, and sand the floor back to clean wood. Few upgrades change a house as much for the money.
Heart pine and old growth longleaf pine sand differently from oak, and they carry decades of patina worth keeping. We refinish them for what they are, choosing a finish that lets the wood deepen in color, and we match any patched boards to the old color. The floor ends up looking old in the right way.
Painted floors turn up in porches, bedrooms and rooms that were once rentals. We test the paint before sanding, since older coatings may contain lead, then remove it with the method the test allows. Only once the wood is clean do we decide whether it can take a clear finish or needs a new color.
Many older floors carry shellac or paste wax, and pine can weep sap bleed through a fresh coat. We test for each before sanding, because a new polyurethane will not bond over wax, and sap needs sealing first. Skipping those tests is how new finish peels within months.
Orange oak is what happens when an oil-based finish ambers over the years on red oak. Sanding to bare wood removes the old finish, and a clear waterborne polyurethane or a neutral stain keeps the color from drifting back. We show you samples of both on your floor first.
The honey tones common in 1980s subdivisions can be sanded out and replaced with a gray, a brown or a natural look. We confirm there is enough wood to sand before quoting, then use water popping on the raw wood where a darker stain needs to take evenly. You pick the color from samples, not from a chart.
Stairs are the hardest part of any refinish, with stair treads, stair risers and stair nosing each sanded mostly by hand. We quote them tread by tread, and we price refinishing and new treads as the two separate jobs they are. You see exactly what each step costs before we start.
We connect our sanders to a vacuum system for dustless sanding, seal off the work area, and plan the finish coats so you keep access to the rooms you need. Most families stay home through a refinish. We tell you ahead of time which days the house will smell of finish.
Freshly refinished floors are one of the few upgrades buyers notice in every photo. We schedule pre-listing refinishes around your closing date and choose finishes that cure in time for showings. A neutral color and a satin sheen level suit most buyers without making the floor feel new.
Replacing carpet with hardwood starts with removing the carpet pad and tack strip and checking the subfloor under them. We fix squeaks and flatten high spots before any board goes down, whether the job is one bedroom or the whole upstairs. A flat, sound subfloor is what keeps the new floor quiet.
Carpeted stairs usually sit on rough framing that was never meant to be seen. We remove the carpet and install new stair treads, risers and nosing, matched to the floor at the top and bottom of the flight. Each step is quoted on its own so you can see where the cost goes.
In a townhome, the association’s declaration may set rules on flooring, underlayment or noise. We confirm the written approval before we order material, because those rules come from your own documents rather than from state law. Starting with approval avoids a finished floor you are asked to remove.
Condo towers bring freight elevator bookings, quiet hours and an underlayment the building specifies. We plan the delivery, the cutting and the install around all three, and we check the building’s rules before quoting. That keeps the job from stalling halfway because a board could not come up the elevator.
Solid hardwood can be sanded many times, engineered hardwood has a real wood wear layer over a stable core, and luxury vinyl plank is plastic that resists water. We explain honestly where each works, since a basement or a slab may suit engineered or vinyl better than solid wood. The right choice depends on the room, not the showroom.
On a concrete slab, we install glue-down engineered flooring or a floating floor, and we test the slab first. Moisture testing to the ASTM F2170 method and the right vapor retarder keep slab moisture from cupping the new floor. Skipping that test is the most common reason slab installs fail.
Prefinished boards arrive with a factory finish and go in fast, with micro-bevels between boards. Site-finished floors are sanded and coated in place, giving a flat, seamless surface that can match an existing floor. We walk you through how each one wears, cleans and refinishes years from now.
White oak takes stain evenly and resists moisture better than red oak, which is why it dominates wide plank installs. Wide boards move more with humidity, so we check moisture closely and fasten them to suit their width. Done right, a wide plank floor stays flat through a Georgia summer.
Herringbone and chevron floors are laid from a centered layout line, and every board is cut and fitted by hand. We plan the layout so the pattern lines up with the room’s main sightline and doorways. Pattern floors take longer than straight lay, and we quote them that way.
Before installation, we read the moisture in the new flooring and the subfloor and let the wood acclimate to your home. Following the NWFA Installation Guidelines, we leave the right expansion gap at walls and cover it with quarter round or base. Rushing acclimation is how new floors gap in winter and cup in summer.
In Georgia, the termite letter is the Official Georgia Wood Infestation Inspection Report, and it often turns up damage right before closing. We inspect the floor, quote the repair, and document the work so both sides of the sale can see it was done. Who pays depends on the contract, so we give both agents the same written scope.
A termite bond is a contract with a pest control company, and many cover retreatment but not damage repair. Read yours before you assume the floor is covered. We supply a written repair scope you can send to the pest company either way.
Many homeowners policies cover sudden water damage, such as a burst supply line, but not slow leaks that went on for months. We document moisture readings and damage room by room so your adjuster has what they need. The final coverage decision is always your insurer’s, not ours.
When a buyer’s inspection finds floor damage, a seller credit at closing is common. We provide a written estimate both sides can use, and we can schedule the work right after closing. A clear scope keeps the credit from being a guess.
Condo floors are governed by your building’s declaration, under the framework of the Georgia Condominium Act. We read the flooring and underlayment requirements with you before quoting, and we work to them. A floor that meets the declaration is one you never have to redo.
Older intown homes often hold heart pine and original oak worth keeping. We repair and refinish those floors with matched boards and finishes that suit their age. Any district review is yours to confirm; the floor work itself we plan around what the wood can take.
Landlords often need to know whether a floor shows tenant damage or normal wear and tear. We describe what we find in plain terms, from pet stains to traffic lanes, and quote the repair. That record helps when the security deposit is in dispute.
For homes built before 1978, we check the build year and any painted surfaces before sanding, because the EPA RRP Rule governs work that disturbs lead paint. When lead is present, we follow the required work practices. Sanding it without checking puts your family’s health at risk.
Some older floors hide vinyl tile or black mastic adhesive under carpet, and older versions can contain asbestos. We stop and have suspect material tested before anything is sanded or scraped. It is the one discovery where waiting for a result is always the right call.
Refinishing and new floors are priced per square foot, while stairs are priced per step. The price moves with condition, stain, finish, furniture moving and access. Our quote lists each of those, so you can see what changes the number and where you can save.
Smyrna Wood Flooring provides wood-flooring throughout the greater Smyrna area, with the same crews and the same standards on every job.
Good to know
Most single-level refinishes run three to five working days: a day or two of sanding, a day for stain if you choose one, and a coat of finish per day after that. Waterborne polyurethane dries faster between coats than oil-modified, so the finish you pick moves the calendar more than the square footage does.
Often, yes, but only as far as the wear layer allows. We check the thickness of the engineered wear layer at a vent or a threshold before we promise a sanding, and when the layer is thin we recommend a screen and recoat instead, because sanding through it cannot be undone.
Not usually. We work room by room where the layout allows, use dustless sanding equipment tied to a vacuum, and plan the finish coats so you keep a path to the kitchen and a bathroom. Pets and anyone sensitive to odor are better off elsewhere on finish days.
For kids, dogs and a kitchen that gets real use, a quality waterborne polyurethane in a satin sheen level hides scratches best and stays clear on light oak. Hardwax oil suits people who want a low-sheen look and are happy to spot repair it, and oil-modified polyurethane still suits heart pine that should deepen in color.
If there is enough wood above the tongue for another sanding and the boards are sound, refinishing almost always costs less and keeps a floor that has already proven itself. We recommend replacement only where boards are sanded thin, rotted, termite damaged beyond a patch, or where you want a different species or layout entirely.
Yes. We match species, width and cut first, then blend the color with stain samples after sanding, since new wood and a floor that has aged for decades never look the same raw. Heart pine and old red oak take the most care, and we tell you upfront how close the match will get.
Socks are usually fine the day after the last coat of waterborne finish, with furniture back on felt pads after a few days. Rugs wait longer, often a couple of weeks, because the finish is still curing underneath them. Oil-modified finishes stretch every one of those windows.
We do not advertise a license or certification on this site. What we can tell you is how the work is done: moisture readings before repairs, lead checks on older homes, and written scope for every job, and we are happy to walk through any of it before you commit.
We look at the species, the finish and the condition room by room, take moisture meter readings where anything looks cupped or stained, check for painted or waxed surfaces, and measure what is left above the tongue. You leave the visit knowing which jobs the floor needs and which it does not.
Request a free quote today and we'll get back to you fast.
